Kotohira

I took a train along the north coast of Shikoku from Matsuyama to Kotohira, home to Kotohira-guu, popularly known as Kompira-san. ("Kompira-san" is a nickname for the Hindu-cum-Shinto guardian of mariners, Omono-nushi-no-Mikoto.) On the way to the base of the mountain on which Kompira-san is located, I stopped briefly at the Takadooroo Lantern, a massive wooden structure near the station. This tower dates from just before the Meiji Restoration and served in the late 19th century as a warning beacon in times of impending attack.



I also stopped at the Kinryoo Sake Museum for a sample or six...


...and at Kompira Udon for some lunch. Sanuki-udon is the specialty of Kagawa Prefecture. Although these thick noodles are available throughout Japan, they are made fresh in Kagawa-ken. Usually I'm not a fan, but here it was surprisingly superior.



After lunch, I headed to Kompira-san. The original shrine on this spot dates from the 9th century when Buddhist/Shinto demigod Kooboo Daishi ordered its erection. Although it originally served as both a Buddhist and Shinto temple, Buddhists were eschewed during the Meiji Restoration. Today it is among the top three Shinto holy places in Japan, that is to say, in the world. Reaching the main shrine of Hon-guu entails climbing 785 steps. A smaller shrine--Oku-sha--demands 583 more. Asahi-no-Yashiro is holy enough that a number of seniors shell out 5000 yen (a little less than 50 dollars) to be carried up the steps in a small "car" supported by a bamboo staff.



The long, strenuous climb is marked by a number of shrines, statues, and various buildings, ranging from stables housing white horses sacred to Shintoism...


...to a mid-17th century reception hall ("Shoin") containing a number of famous prints.



A large number of Buddhist pilgrims come to Kompira-san, as well as 87 other temples on the Shikoku trail first traveled by Kooboo Daishi and his Shingon ("True Word") sect of Buddhists. They generally wear wide-brimmed straw hats--yes, the cone kind--and carry walking sticks. Some of the most ascetic pilgrims only use money that is donated by passersby; see below.


After a long climb, I finally arrived at the Asahi-no-Yashiro--"Sunshine Shrine."


From there, it was only two more flights of stairs to the Hon-guu, the main shrine that serves as a location for most of Kompira-san's activities. Most tourists stop here, as the remaining 583 steps (and treacherous they are) take you to an unremarkable shrine.



Said unremarkable shrine--Oku-sha--was actually not so bad. Located at such a high altitude, it offered incredible views of Kotohira and surrounding mountains for 20 km, all the way to the Inland Sea.